After prints galore, scarlet wigs and one Mr Galliano at Fashion Fringe, the cities big hitters came out for the final days of London Fashion Week. With his much feted return to London, Giles along with Burberry, Jaeger and Christopher Kane ensured the week ended on a high. Unusual model castings (Kelly Brook and Veruschka at Giles!), star studded front rows, collections inspired by Angie Bowie and laser cut leather are just a few of the final highlights of London Spring Summer 2011. The capital’s youthful collections in neon brights were a refreshing change from the minimalistic look currently being sported by the majority of fashion editors from across the globe (Anna Dello Russo excepted). Here are three of the best collections from the last few days.
Christopher Kane
London’s wonder boy came up trumps again for Spring/Summer 2011, creating a collection inspired by Princess Margaret on acid and Camden Market’s Cyberdog crew. Kane reworked the English gentlewoman look using conservative shapes in the neon hues first spotted in his 2006 graduate collection. The models stomped down the runway in Pringle diamond cashmere twin sets, knee length skirt suits and collarless jackets with a twist. Despite using ladylike pleats and longer lengths, the use of sheer detailing and laser cut leather ensured the collection wasn’t too conservative. Modern elements were added to classic shapes as florals were stamped onto neon forties style leather skirt suits and Japanese prints were embossed over sheer polka dots. Kane created a new fashion armour with dresses and pleated skirts in a kimono dragon print amd neon leather strips teamed with platformed flip flops. The collection consisted of Christopher Kane’s signature items with an added twist; cocktail dresses, striking prints and cashmere were all updated for the new season. There is no doubt that if the rebellious royal attended raves in Camden, this would certainly be what she would wear.
Felicity Brown at Fashion East
After ten years of showcasing designers from Gareth Pugh to Richard Nicoll, Fashion East marked its tenth anniversary by moving from Somerset House to Waterloo’s old Eurostar terminal. Despite young designers Heikki Salonen and Simone Rocha showing striking collections, it was Felicity Brown who created the most show stopping pieces. Brown who has previously worked for Lanvin and Alberta Ferretti, created a collection of feminine ruffled dresses and simple separates in jewel shades. With ruffles emerging like blooms contrasting with a bodycon fit, the dresses were particularly beautiful and had an almost Rodarte like charm. The opening dress in shades of blue was especially striking, with the intricate rosettes, fashioned from a millefeuille (hundreds of layers of silk) conjuring up images of the ocean. The youthfulness of the collection was enhanced by the unfinished, rough edges on each piece which contrasted with their couture like proportions. Despite the three dimensional ruffles on a number of Brown’s pieces; by pairing jewel brights such as coral and sky blue with neutral tones, she insured there was an innate wearability to the collection. Hair was kept in a simple top knot and make up was plain, ensuring the viewer focused on the clothes. These beautifully hand dyed, soft ruffled dresses were the highlight of Fashion East and hint at a very promising future for Brown.
Erdem
After winning Vogue’s Fashion Fund and dressing numerous political wives, for Spring/Summer 2011 Erdem Moralioglu showcased his collection on a circular catwalk in a dreamlike Victorian garden. Consisting of intricate white lace dresses, striking floral pegged trousers and clashing prints this was certainly the most beautiful collection of the week. After spending the summer assisting Jane Pritchard as she curated the Victoria and Albert Museum’s, ‘Diaghilev and the Golden Age of the Ballet Russes, 1909-1929,’ it was clear Erdem was inspired by the exhibition. The dainty influence of ballet costumes was present, from the lace up shoes designed by Nicholas Kirkwood to the fluidity of the dresses with their fitted bodices and flared skirts. The intricate red and white lace dress worn by Barbora Dvorakova seemed particularly reminiscent of the dramatic costumes of the Russes. As always Moralioglu’s signature clashing floral prints were present, although for Spring they were featured alongside harlequin diamonds and Swavorski crystals. The closing dress embossed with faded white roses with a thigh high slit was a glamorous highlight and would not look out of place on a forties film star. Erdem’s ultra feminine spring collection was entirely romantic and is sure to be seen all over the red carpet over months to come.
For Spring/Summer 2011 London created a number of innovative collections that included prints galore, florals and seventies inspired pieces. Now Milan has begun with scuba inspired styles at Marni and stripes galore at Prada, meaning it is likely a number of trends are still to emerge.
Harriet Tisdall
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